Journal

The Ferry Nobody Mentions

Combining Scotland and Ireland in one trip.

April 2026 · 7 min read

Most American golfers treat Scotland and Ireland as separate trips. Fly to Edinburgh, play Scotland. Fly home. Next year, fly to Dublin, play Ireland. Fly home. Two trips, two sets of flights, two weeks of vacation used.

There's a better way, and it involves a two-hour ferry that most Americans don't know exists.

The Route

The ferry runs from Belfast or Larne in Northern Ireland to Cairnryan in southwest Scotland. Two hours, drive on, drive off. You leave Royal County Down in the morning and arrive in Ayrshire — home of Turnberry, Royal Troon, and Prestwick — in time for a late lunch. Or reverse it: finish your Scotland trip at Turnberry and ferry across to start Ireland at Royal Portrush the next day.

The cost is modest — around $150-200 for a car with passengers. Compare that to two separate international flights and the math is obvious. But the real value isn't financial. It's that you play both countries in one trip, spending ten days instead of two separate weeks.

The Ten-Day Itinerary

Fly into Edinburgh. Play East Lothian for three days — Muirfield, North Berwick, Gullane. Drive west to Ayrshire. Play Turnberry and Troon. Take the ferry to Northern Ireland. Play Royal Portrush and Royal County Down. Drive south to the Dublin coast or west to the links of the northwest — Rosapenna, Ballyliffin. Fly home from Dublin.

Or go the other direction: fly into Dublin, play the southwest (Ballybunion, Lahinch, Tralee), drive north to Portrush, ferry to Scotland, finish at St Andrews. Fly home from Edinburgh.

Ten days. Two countries. A dozen courses that most golfers never play in the same lifetime, let alone the same trip.

The key is not trying to do everything. Pick one region of Scotland and one region of Ireland. Go deep, not wide. The courses within each cluster are close together — in East Lothian, five championship courses sit within 30 minutes of each other. In Kerry, Ballybunion, Tralee, and Dooks are all within an hour.

What You Need to Know

Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland are different countries but the border is invisible — you won't even notice crossing it. Currency changes from pounds to euros at the border, but cards work everywhere. Driving stays on the left throughout. Car rental across the border is fine — just mention it when booking.

The ferry should be booked in advance during peak season (June-August) but walk-up is usually possible in shoulder months. P&O and Stena Line operate the routes. The crossing is calm in summer, less so in winter.

Accommodation near Cairnryan is limited — don't plan to stay there. Drive 40 minutes south to Turnberry or north to Troon. On the Irish side, Belfast is 90 minutes from the ferry port and a proper city worth an evening.

Why This Works

Scotland and Ireland offer different things. Scotland is history, tradition, the Old Course, the walk-on culture, the quiet intensity. Ireland is warmth, conversation, dramatic coastal scenery, the craic in the clubhouse. Playing both back to back doesn't blur them together — it sharpens the contrast. You appreciate each more because of the other.

The combined trip is also the best answer to the "Scotland or Ireland?" question that every golf group argues about. The answer is both. The ferry makes it possible. The experience makes it unforgettable.

James to plan a combined trip →
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